Harry Winston is one of the most dynamic watch manufacturers today not only due to the sheer diversity of the aesthetic styles and moves, but also due to the huge divide between their most conservative and most crazy watches. Now, I will look at something that is, unusually, sort of at the middle, melding classic elegance with a unique-looking haute horology high-end movement. This is the Harry Winston Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour, also when the recently covered Harry Winston Opus 14 is not for you, then maybe something like this from the Ocean collection is much more to your liking.When the Swatch Group purchased Harry Winston, a lot of people speculated that uncontrolled high-end watches such as this would start to be phased out in favor of much more timeless and clear-cut luxury watches focusing on diamonds and also girls. Yes, diamonds continue to be a cornerstone of this Harry Winston brand, but beneath direction from Nayla Hayek, Harry Winston does not seem to be abandoning its more exotic high-complication watches which continue to fit the brand well. That said, if you would like the Harry Winston Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour watch with diamonds – it’s available (at least in the 18k white gold version). OCEMTJ45WW002 version of this timepiece. The 18k white gold version without diamonds is ref. OCEMTJ45WW001, but right now, I am talking about the 18k rose gold version that is the mention OCEMTJ45RR001 which you see before you.
And talking of gawking, there’s over an eyeful to go around with the Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 8 because you take in the twin bi-axial tourbillons. Now, as stated, this is precisely the exact same complication which punctuated the previous HDT entry, but it’s back with a spin. In place of the traditional two-handed time screen in the 3:00 side of the dial, we have a pair of rotating discs — hours at 1:00, and moments at 4:00, which “leap” as each hour and minute clicks by.But the actual story here, since it was with the HDT 7, is the double tourbillons. Granted, little has changed since we last saw them — but the execution is still mind-bendingly complex, and also a treat to behold, particularly when juxtaposed against a less traditional timekeeping screen — an aesthetic that appears to more neatly fit the general nü-industrial vibe of this watch. To the left of the time screen dance the tourbillons — each of which completes a turning on a 30-degree probable axis. Nestled between that rotational movement, a second cage turns on its own axis, finishing a rotation every 45 seconds. In the latter, the balance wheel keeps a steady tempo of 21,600vph, throughout the watch’s power reserve of about 55 hours (signaled by the cone at 6:00).The entire notion behind a tourbillon itself is to decrease gravity’s influence on the balance wheel, by actively subjecting it to the broadest variety of movement positions possible. By putting the tourbillon on another axis, and then doubling the complication itself, the balance wheel is put within an exponentially larger amount of positions, thereby theoretically yielding a much higher degree of chronometric functionality.
My only idea is that using a 36mm dial, it might be a little large for the traditional cocktail watch, but I am curious to learn how it lies in the wrist. It may go either way on a case by case basis, with the larger dial design comprising more as a beautiful bracelet, or perhaps just a stunning casual costume-occasion watch.Bottom lineup: for all the hopeless romantics who have secretly imagined giving their wife/girlfriend/passionate-unrequited-love-attention a flock of trained butterflies delivering a diamond (you know who you are), this is a wonderful option. Furthermore, however, in the event that you just wanted a gift with a little whimsy and charm that this is actually also an interesting choice with a sentiment just romantic enough which cannot be missed on the receiving end. And lastly, for girls that are looking for a beautifully designed dialog piece with a narrative, and a real automatic motion to grow their collection, the new Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly collection is well worth considering.Having seen several exceptional dials, marquetry techniques and craftsmanship in women’s bits, what I personally adore is the idea that, for a cost, you can essentially get a little “pixie dust” in your watch.The Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly collection watches come in four variants: The “Chrysiridia Madagascariensis” – 18K white gold butterfly marquetry theme in Emerald on black silk tech strap, (PRNAHM36WW004) price: $42,500. “Adelpha Lara” – 18K rose gold on brown technology satin strap (PRNAHM36RR008) cost: $41,500.
What makes the wizardry of the Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 8 so interesting, however, isn’t just that we’ve got two independently operating tourbillons, both working on two axes each, however that their mechanical operation ends in a single time measurement. To ensure the accuracy of this single dimension, the HDT 8 employs a round differential, which maintains a mean between the two — a typical that’s exhibited in the form of the time to the right of this dial.The case of this HDT 8 itself is made from white gold, the rotating time disks from aluminum, and the tourbillon cages and motion bridges from titanium. Dimension-wise, the Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 8 carries its case sizing over in the HDT 7, and this is by no means little: 51mm by 17mm. But bear in mind that the calibre HW4503 that houses the twin tourbillons (all which comprises 117 components alone) is 43mm by itself. Large? Yes, but at least there’s a justifiably large amount to look at here, even if it’s a far cry from being legible. Along with the tourbillons dancing away the hours, the dial itself is a sight to behold — comprised of one element with 13 different textured components. Each of these textures is executed through a different completing procedure — from sanded, grained, and satin textures, to the complex honeycomb and engraved script pattern at 12:00.
The Histoire de Tourbillon series is going to have Harry Winston in trouble. Seeing how every iteration of this set of incredible legacy watches has gotten exponentially more and more complex every year, we’re starting to wonder how on Earth will they be able to deliver something that can up the ante in the previous version. Nonetheless, it does not seem like 2016 are the year the Histoire De Tourbillon plateaued, with the debut of the downright galactic Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 7 for Baselworld.So how, exactly, does one go on topping 2015’s eye-watering, $600,000 Tourbillon 6, which marveled with nearly 700 components, two time indicators, an 80-hour power reserve, plus a tri-axial tourbillon — all placed in a titanic 55mm case? Easy. You double down with none, but two bi-axial tourbillons wed by a spherical String that averages their behavioral patterns relative to gravity and position to give a spectacular, synchronous ballet with time. Easy, right?On paper, the HW4502 movement might seem simpler, as it is comprised of only a hair over 500 components and 84 stone. Additionally, this latest version does not contain nearly as many unique complications since the Tourbillon 6. Additionally, it’s still about the same dimensions as your (above-average-sized) contemporary wristwatch, in 43.5 millimeter wide and 8.65 millimeter thick — and again, those are the measurements of just the movement independently! Anyhow, that notable reduction in component count appears to have enabled the Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 7’s movement engineers to focus on the technical wizardry behind carrying a single tourbillon complication with two axes of differing trajectories that push the escapements, and doubling it — a clinically calculated feat Winston clarifies was achieved with “outstanding technical strength.” Sounds about Perfect.
Famed New York jeweler Harry Winston — known as one of the very prestigious Fifth Avenue houses because the 1930s and, clearly, because of their association with the Hope Diamond — has recently released the Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly Watch series featuring a new twist on plumasserie. Plumasserie traditionally refers to the art of selecting, preparing and using bird feathers for decoration — in this instance, you guessed it, see dials!If you are looking for something particular, the newest Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly collection view may be exactly the right colour. This time round, we view automatic moves moving away indoors, providing the upgraded set the chance to be of interest to a whole new set of female watch consumers.So what’s the spin on “plumasserie?” Instead of using feathers, as lots of other watch companies like Dior and Corum have started integrating in their dial designs, Harry Winston’s new Premier Precious Butterfly collection watches will comprise one-of-a-kind dials, colored just by employing the delicate iridescent powder chosen out of butterfly wings — arguably a whole lot more romantic than the modern “unobtainium” materials brands have been developing for their men’s watches. Remarkably, they managed to collect enough of the coloured powder from butterfly wings to color an whole watch dial, and as a consequence of the micro-variation, you will not have two pieces exactly alike. This is a technique, I am told, three decades in the building.
Developed by Ludovic Ballouard, the Harry Winston Opus XIII is the ultimate jumping hour and minute display – jumping every minute and every hour.
Ludovic Ballouard’s watches have always been about novel interpretations of the jumping hour, with the Upside Down for instance. The Opus XIII takes that philosophy to its extreme. The Opus XIII has 59 minute hands, each of which sits at an angle of 40 degrees under the tinted sapphire ring around the dial, with each fifth minute tipped in red. Each hand jumps out to indicate the minutes, one after another, until they reach the top of the hour. At the top of the hour, all 59 minute hands spring back, and the cycle starts anew.
Arranged around the central faceted sapphire crystal are the 11 triangular hour hands. Each pivots outwards to indicate the time. Once the hour passes, the previous hour pointer jumps back and the next one simultaneously pivots out.
|The time shown above is 10:54|
There are only 11 hour hands because at 12 o’clock – twice a day, at noon and midnight, the Harry Winston “HW” logo is revealed in the circulate aperture in the centre of the dial.
The case is white gold and measures 44.25 mm in diameter, though on the wrist it does not seem as large. At the top and bottom of the case is the signature Harry Winston triple-stripe, inspired by the doorway arches at its New York store. Engraved on the bezel is the brand and model, a poor design choice.
All of these jumping indicators means the movement has plenty of moving parts and a whopping 242 jewels. It also has twin barrels, one for the time and another for the jumping minutes, and a short 35 hour power reserve.
Though simply finished, the movement is a remarkable sight, with a mass of gears, springs and cams, with a perimeter of rubies circling it. Even when nothing is in motion, it appears to be engaged in frenzied activity.
Only 130 will be made with a retail price in Singapore of S$479,300 (~US$376,000) including 7% tax. – SJX